By Paul Topping

We land in Sydney, and the  Rocks have heavy rain, and it’s late in the evening. A pleasant, young, well-educated Indian taxi driver from Hyderabad takes us to our apartment. The owners of the apartment tell us the fob is fastened in a box onto a tree near the property. In the heavy rain on our knees, we sort out the combo. All the hassle is worth it as the apartment is well located and laid out.

It’s the 48th Mardi Gras in Sydney this weekend, which will be a first for me, but not my Aussie wife 
The Rocks is now a twenty-hectare site with origins back to the early Aboriginals, a short Dutch involvement, and then Captain Cook in 1770.  Thousands of convicts and soldiers from England came next. The Rocks roll down to the harbour now with its multiple piers, hotels, restaurants, shops and ferry terminals.

Big cruise ships dock daily; today it’s the Anthem of the Seas, 4000 passengers. Ironically, an old sailing barge floats next to it.  Tomorrow, Queen Elizabeth 2 docks, and in August we shall be sailing on her out of New York.
The Rocks area is now graced with a new light rail system. Having also used the trains and ferries, it is an impressive transport service. 

We head out from our pad on the Rocks, this was Jezzabel's stomping ground for a couple of decades. Little has changed since then, but she still doesn’t know when to go home.

The Rocks museum is a must-visit on a first trip to the area. Looks small, but an amazing amount of info and visuals .

Lunch is outside the Fortune of War, which dates from 182,8 with an outdoor restaurant and two bars. An amazing restaurant manager who should be on the stage, so funny. Jezzabel and I walk under the iconic harbour bridge, onto a number of old piers, Walsh  Bay, that look a bit tired, some sites unoccupied, can’t even get a coffee. Days later, however, we had a great meal at Venturo. 

My observation is that service and trading hours can be quite flaky in many parts of the city. The International airport closes at 11 pm; it’s the damn capital. This results in us sleeping outside with fifty others on our flight to New Zealand, again, not even a coffee available. Poor service, and at least a decade before a new airport is operational.

It’s Saturday, and the Rocks street markets are buzzing. Another cruise ship dominates the waterfront, and we meet an Aussie friend and have coffee at the Museum of Contemporary Art. Great coffee but poor food offer, interesting statue out front. We had lunch at the Irish Mercantile Hotel on an outside table, with excellent service and a meal. All this in front of the Saturday market, the place is packed. In the evening, loads of tourists and concert goers are out, some from a Grace Jones event. 

The joy of the Rocks is the waterfront, few cars, the alleyways, steps, cafes, bars, quaint shops, history and loads of tourists.

In 1973, Jack Mondey created the “Battle of the Rocks” which focused on conservation. The green areas and many terrace houses were saved, but many had already been knocked down. We enter The Orient Hotel. The last time I went into this hotel was ten years ago. A bouncer said I could be intoxicated with a red face (sun exposure), and no entry was permitted. I asked for the manager I was told he could not change the decision. 

The Observatory is worth the walk, a stunning raised location with amazing views. I followed this with a pint in a pub that’s over 200 years old, The Lord Nelson. I have to say the beer range and creativity are greater in Christchurch.

Lots of fun in the Rocks catching up with local friends and a few trips, Manley, Newtown, and Darling Harbour.  Great shopping in the city for the wife, I can safely say it’s a place I like to visit every five or so years.