Oct 01 2024.
views 148When two chefs with distinct culinary backgrounds collaborate, magic happens. Tabé, the contemporary Japanese restaurant in Colombo, recently played host to a unique dining experience—432, an eight-course dinner spread over two nights. But 432 was more than just a number; it symbolised something much deeper: 4 hands, 3 cultures, 2 chefs. The brainchild of Wishmalak Perera and Gimhani Wickremesinghe, 432 was a culinary love letter crafted through the language of food, each dish acting as a chapter in a story that transcended borders and traditions.
At its heart, 432 was about dialogue—an artistic exchange between Wishmalak and Gimhani, whose dishes spoke to each other in a carefully choreographed sequence. "It’s like we’re writing letters to each other," Wishmalak shared. "Each letter represents a memory, a thought, or a shared experience, and the response comes in the form of food." As the diners moved from one course to the next, they were taken on a journey—an intimate conversation between two chefs, blending their personal histories and international experiences with Sri Lankan ingredients.
“We connected through food, through our shared experiences in kitchens, and our love for local ingredients,” said Wishmalak during our interview. The dinner was a perfect reflection of that connection—an intimate conversation told through Japanese and Spanish cuisines, both infused with a Sri Lankan flair. The chefs used their plates to celebrate the island’s abundant produce and culinary talent, bringing a fresh perspective to the table.
The Chefs Behind the Vision
Wishmalak Perera, the co-founder of Tabé, returned to Sri Lanka after nine transformative years spent working in kitchens across the globe. His culinary career began at S.L.I.T.H.M and Hilton, where he developed a deep understanding of his craft. Now, Wishmalak is back home, focused on elevating the Sri Lankan food scene with a fusion of nostalgic childhood flavours and the global techniques he has mastered. "Tabé is my canvas," he says, "where I express a culinary vision rooted in tradition but inspired by Kyoto, Colombo, and beyond."
On the other side of the partnership is Gimhani Wickremesinghe, whose culinary journey took off in Barcelona during the 2019 lockdown. What started as intimate dinners for friends quickly turned into a thriving Supper Club, marking the start of her professional cooking career. With a deep connection to her Sri Lankan roots, Gimhani’s food blends the fiery flavours of her grandmother’s recipes with the techniques she learned from working in European kitchens. "Cooking is my passion, my therapy, my meditation," she shares. "It’s my Dharma. I believe food has the power to heal, to connect us across cultures and oceans."
A Space for Creativity and Collaboration
But Tabé is not just about the food. Step inside, and you’re greeted by an atmosphere that is as raw and rebellious as the cuisine itself. It feels like you’ve stumbled into a hidden alleyway in Tokyo—complete with the gritty charm of old yakuza films and the edge of tattoo culture. Here, perfection is not the goal; the beauty lies in embracing imperfections and pushing the boundaries of what dining can be.
For Wishmalak, food is about storytelling. “People tell stories through different mediums—art, music, literature. For me, food is that medium. Each course is like a letter, and we respond to each other through our dishes,” he explained. The first course was Wishmalak’s letter to Gimhani—an ode to the Japanese flavours he loves, reimagined with local ingredients. Gimhani responded with a dish that fused Spanish techniques with Sri Lankan spice, creating a dialogue between two chefs who share a passion for pushing culinary boundaries.
Tabé itself is a testament to this philosophy. The restaurant’s name, derived from the Japanese word for "eat," invites diners to explore flavours in unexpected ways. Wishmalak’s dishes draw from his global journey as a chef, combining Sri Lanka’s rich culinary heritage with the principles of Kyoto cuisine. But this isn’t fusion—it’s evolution. “We’re not blending two cuisines; we’re creating something new. It’s about taking what we have here in Sri Lanka—our ingredients, our talent—and presenting it in a way that’s fresh, unapologetic, and world-class,” said Wishmalak.
"I wouldn't be here without the incredible support of so many people," Wishmalak expressed. "I'm grateful to the Ceylon Culinary Collection, the Tabé team, Gimhani, and everyone else involved. 432 has proved to be a fantastic experience that reminds me of the power of collaboration and community. And of course, I can't forget our amazing diners, whose enthusiasm and support have been the driving force behind Tabé's success”. This sentiment echoes the spirit that permeates Tabé, a space where culinary creativity and shared experiences converge.
As for the future, "432" is just the beginning. Wishmalak promises that many more events like this are on the horizon, each one a new opportunity to showcase Sri Lankan talent and produce. “Tabé is a platform for people to express themselves, for chefs to showcase their talent, and for diners to experience something different,” he said. Through food, the spirit of Tabé is all about celebrating the unexpected.
So if you’re looking for a dining experience that challenges conventions and tells a story with every bite, Tabé is the place to be. Just don’t expect the ordinary—here, the misfits and rebels rule the kitchen, and their stories are best served with a dash of attitude.
Pics courtesy of Tabé
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