Vacation Diaries - As seen through the eyes of Sakie Ariyawansa; a Sri Lankan wanderer in India...
The White Street - Jama Masjid
Delhi had always been a dream, a fascinating one rather, that my heart always urged to go to. Finally, I fulfilled its untamed wish in December 2011 through a rough two nights journey in a general compartment in a train from Bangalore to New Delhi. I should be truly thankful to my Kashmiri friend, Wasim Mannas, who was travelling to Delhi, with whom I decided to tag along. Hadn’t it been for him, and his acceptance, my pleading efforts would have being in vain.
We arrived at Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station in Delhi on a Friday morning. The first place I wanted to be was Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India, which was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The mosque was apparently constructed by more than 5000 and has a courtyard that could accommodate more than 25,000 people. Jama Masjid is located in an area known as Chandni Chowk in the present day, near Meena Bazaar, known as the most populated, crowded, and packed area in Old Delhi. The area is well known for its Muslim dominancy, and the mouthwatering chicken kebabs, and kurmas of the authentic Muslim food culture.
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We got a rickshaw to drop us off at the Masjid, and as soon as it turned to the Masjid road I could see the tops of the pillars of the mosque above the old frayed buildings of Chandni Chowk streets, standing like a powerful giant sheltering all below. My heart leaped with excitement as we got off at Gate no.1 where the steps escalated to the courtyard, as a carpet to heavens. I had already seen the mosque in movies, read about it in books, but the sight of it in real life, delighted my eyes. It hadn’t excited Wasim much, as he has been there a million times, and was shocked to see how shocked I was. His words seemed far away as we climbed up the stairs to the courtyard, and my bare feet touching the marble floor, sending a cool vibe through my body putting my mind at ease.
The courtyard was full of worshippers who were washing their hands and feet at the pond in the courtyard getting ready for the Friday prayer. The beams of the sun hit the water and sent rays of rainbows across the mosque like an invitation to be indulged in peace and faith in God, and the flying pigeons symbolized the freedom for the tired soul of one, among the busy Delhi streets. It was almost the time for the afternoon prayer, and the sight of the men in white, drifting towards the mosque from so far away, is a sight not to be missed. It didn’t take long until they turned the whole street white in colour dressed in their ethnic attire (kurtas) worn for prayers.
I had all the time to myself sitting under the arches until Wasim arrived from the prayers. I closed my eyes and listened to the prayers that were broadcasted to the whole city, aloud and felt my soul being drifted away to a place so peaceful. Not many people are fascinated by religious places which are not in par with their religious beliefs, but I must be honest when I say that I have been given a new life ever since my first visit to Jama Masjid, Delhi. Divinity has no proper name or location; it is only a place which makes one feel closer to peacefulness. It has been 4 years since then, and up to date I have been there nearly 20 times, every time I arrive in Delhi, each turn energizing me with hope and faith. It is a place not to be only seen, but to be felt deep within one’s heart where it could only be showered with immense blessings.
Points to ponder
· What shouldn't you do at Jama Masjid?
At Jama Masjid you are not supposed to litter, shout or run around. People should behave decently, and calm and it should not be used as a place to kill time or address gatherings and exhibit political or personal views aloud. And also yes, not walk in wearing shoes.
· Best attire to visit in?
May it be a Muslim or a not, it is a must to wear proper clothes that cover the whole body. Skirts or pants that come down to the ankle, and tops or Kurtas that come up to the wrist. Head cover or at least a slight dupatta (shawl) is mandatory.
· You'll see many....?
Kashmiris, Afghans and Turks who live around the Old Delhi area.
· Best time of the day to visit?
Early morning between 6-7.30 am or evening from 6pm onwards. (depends on the season; winter or summer)
By Eshani Seneviratne
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