By Paul Topping

Over the last two decades, we have probably stayed in accommodation or rented a villa more than forty times in Thalpe, near Galle. There are said to be close to one hundred villas, hotels and guest houses in the area. Back in the day, it was cool to stay here and party in Unawatuna. The new highway pushed more people further south to better beaches, surfing and party locations. Thalpe is, however, a survivor, representing some of the finest seafront villas in Sri Lanka. Galle is also only nine kilometres away. To some degree, all the excitement has moved further south, resulting in Unawatuna becoming quite downmarket.

The luxury of many villas in Thalpe has ensured its reputation continues. It is not as susceptible to the traditional concept that is sadly still overplayed on the island of Sri Lanka, the so-called "on and off season". Florida has seasons, but you never hear much about them, despite large weather fluctuations. Great properties in Thalpe offer excellent cuisine and plenty of pampering with professional staff. Our favourite stays have been Ishqu, Elysium and Selenya. We always stop at Shanti Shanti, an excellent seafront restaurant and bar with fast, friendly service from a Greek lady and the rest of the team. It is technically the off-season, but still very busy.

This time we have booked a house dating from the 1960s, fully refurbished in a modern style with high ceilings, an open-plan kitchen and everything finished in white. It is an Australian-designed rebuild called Temple House. We are ten minutes from the beach and only a four-minute walk from the large Mihiripenna temple complex next door.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 256: "On arrival somewhere new, do a walkabout."

The temple complex, around 150 yards from where we are staying, looks modern and fairly standard from the outside. The school opposite is over one hundred and fifty years old, so we decided to have a look around the temple. We discover a 500-year-old inner temple containing an impressive array of statues and ancient religious artwork. As we leave, we have to wake the resident cat before placing our donation in the collection box.

Outside, some young girls raking the sand around two Bo trees ask us, in English, to return in the evening for a temple music event because it is Poya. Our villa is so close that we hear the performances throughout the afternoon and well into the evening. It creates a very pleasant atmosphere as we sit by the pool and relax.

The following day, we are invited to the Radisson Blu Resort, Galle. We join seven friends of five different nationalities for a fifteen-course Japanese meal. One of the joys of living in Sri Lanka is our wide circle of friends. Many are Sri Lankan, more are from overseas, all choosing to live on this paradise island. The service is excellent, and every course is a delight.

The hotel is full of Indian tourists. I notice plenty of premium roller luggage brands, Tumi, Louis Vuitton and others. Are they fake, I wonder? Well-dressed younger travellers are waiting for the next coach. I often think the younger wealthy Indian tourists are better behaved than some of the older generation, who seem more inclined to negotiate every price and complain a lot.

The evening is spent playing cards, something that was banned throughout my childhood because my father would not allow cards in the house. Nowadays, we generally only play cards with one other couple in Sri Lanka.

Our weekend retreat officially has three bedrooms but could comfortably sleep twelve. It is a clever property design, making use of an office and one room fitted with four bunk beds. The small pool even includes a shallow section for sitting and relaxing.

Trips down south generally end with a visit to Galle on the way home. It remains my favourite city.

Whilst the ladies enjoy the shops, the husbands walk the ramparts at sunset. It is now possible to complete a full circuit walk of the fort rampart walls. Today is Poya and the city is chock-a-block with locals enjoying a family day out. The traffic is chaotic, but it is wonderful to see so many people putting life's trials and tribulations to one side as they stroll the ramparts together with their families, dressed in their best outfits.