By Paul Topping

Ahangama, eighteen kilometres beyond Galle, was once a sleepy, one-street town. Its only claim to fame was its location between Koggala and Weligama. Today, one of the benefits of staying in the town is it is a cheap location to explore all the south coast from.  In the peak tourist season, the town is transformed into a buzzing surfing and nightspot location. European tourists and more enjoying the laid-back atmosphere.

It's May, and it's the quieter season. Yet, the key bars overlooking the sea, with their live bands, are still rocking. Five years ago, you would have struggled to find a quality restaurant in the town, and the beaches were known only to the locals. Now, a quick Google search will show you the top twenty restaurants in Ahangama; they are popping up everywhere. So are accommodation options. It is mostly budget and mid-range accommodation. Unfortunately, some places allow day visitors into their facilities. I hate swimming with the masses. The higher-quality accommodation is further out, but no doubt more will follow in this booming area.

The growth of Ahangama reminds me of upcountry Ella. Fifteen years ago it was just a town we drove through. Now, it has emerged on the world stage as a must-visit destination. Its railway bridge and the iconic train ride to Ella have gained international recognition.

Back to Ahangama; its town centre is a chaotic, fast-moving drive-through of grubby little shops and essential services lining the road. I think the town however boasts a ten-kilometer waterfront spanning Kabalana, a cheap beach to learn to surf and the Secret Beach, needing some effort to find. They are said to offer some of the most consistent waves on the island of Sri Lanka all year round. Kamala has surfboard rentals, but it’s not the cleanest beach I’ve encountered while touring the island. There are surf camps to join and parties every night, some outdoor.

The road to paradise is never easy, nor is our journey to Palm, our accommodation just outside Ahangama. The funky, container-style open resort features a lively dining and lounge area with a great atmosphere. The chalets are a delightful surprise. They are A-frame chalets, reminiscent of ski resorts, and are spread across large acreage. They may look small from the outside, but inside, they are practical and homely. I’m just waiting for the snow!

Our nighttime adventures take us along Ahangama's main strip, with lots of bars. There are no pavements so as you exit a place you rather fight through the parked bikes or end up actually on the road avoiding the speeding stop-start buses. Many of the bars face the sea, and it’s all quite rustic, some may say basic. It is loud music and a vibrant atmosphere, the European blondes keeping the dancing going till late. Most people stick to local alcohol unless they’re well-heeled. Imported liquor into Sri Lanka is subject to high taxes and duties matching European pricing. We dance the night away to a four-piece Sri Lankan band playing tunes from the best decades of iconic music, surrounded by partygoers who are likely born after those golden tunes first came out.

It is time to leave this little slice of so-called paradise. I’ll probably be back. Not for the beaches, the town, or even the accommodation, but for the music and the scene. We are doing it all again soon. Are you free?